Figured this may be of use to several of us and I'm not sure if a thread was already created under the tips section of this board. If you have been stuck getting your HomeLink system to work with your garage door opener after following the instructions in the M5 user manual on pages 91 - 93, this thread is for you. Here I have lived for over a year without the convenience of the HomeLink feature which I currently have in two cars now. After gathering the information supplied on this forum, things worked out like a charm and I've got both my garage door openers programmed using positions 1 and 2 on the HomeLink.
Since there is some concern about older garage door systems, let me just say that I have a Liftermaster+ series that was installed in 1998. I went to the HomeLink web site and had to watch the video 8 or so times to get the instructions since you cannot pause it and you have to watch the dreaded introduction over and over where the girl comes home all happy to her automated house and PC, then read the instructions in the M5 manual under 'BMW Universal Transmitter' on page 92 and put the two together. Let's just make this easier shall we? Here are seven steps you can follow to the T. Put your car key in the ignition and turn the ignition to position 2.
Operations manual for rosengrens locks. Press and hold the two outer keys on the HomeLink receiver until the indicator lamp flashes rapidly, then release the keys. The three channel keys are now cleared. Hold the hand-held garage door transmitter toward the HomeLink receiver (no more than 2 inches away), and at the same time press the garage door transmitter key and HomeLink receiver key you wish to program.any one of the three will work.
Your garage door will open since you pressed the garage door remote key, but don't worry about it. Release both keys as soon as the indicator lamp on the HomeLink receiver flashes rapidly. Press the programmed key you selected on the HomeLink receiver and the indicator lamp should illuminate solid (if it does you are done), if it blinks rapidly for 2 seconds then goes solid, continue to the next step. This step is for garage door openers with a rolling code feature. Get a step ladder and press the learn or smart button on the garage door opener in your garage. Within 30 seconds, press the programmed key you selected on the HomeLink receiver for 2 seconds and the training is complete.
You should now be able to use your HomeLink receiver to open the garage door. Repeat steps 3 - 7 if you have more than one garage door opener. Very good post!
Add this to the DIY if you ask me. With some digging here on M5board and in the manual I pieced it together, but this makes it easier for everyone. The M5 manual really drops the ball on your instruction #6. It's that rolling code part that screws over most people.
With the rolling code units you need to train the M5 Homelink with the remote and then let the garage door head unit learn to accept the Homelink as a valid transmitter. It's really a 2 part process. The M5 manual just overcomplicates that concept and ruins it. Edit: ha just realized this thread is from March '07, but my 2nd sentence above still stands! Very good post! Add this to the DIY if you ask me.
With some digging here on M5board and in the manual I pieced it together, but this makes it easier for everyone. The M5 manual really drops the ball on your instruction #6. It's that rolling code part that screws over most people. With the rolling code units you need to train the M5 Homelink with the remote and then let the garage door head unit learn to accept the Homelink as a valid transmitter. It's really a 2 part process. The M5 manual just overcomplicates that concept and ruins it. Edit: ha just realized this thread is from March '07, but my 2nd sentence above still stands!
Lol i knew it was from 07 but after searching this was the best write up i found. So i figured this might be of some use to members who have not coded there homelink. FYI, I tried to push the outside buttons, then proceed with programming about four different times. Tried the learning button on the opener about three times with no luck.
If you read in the M5 Owners manual, it will say to push the button on the Homelink you wish to program three times in succession. Thus: Grab a stepladder. Push the learning button on the garage door opener (my learning light stayed on for 20 seconds). Within the time the light stays on, push the desired button on the Homelink transmitter three times in a row. Should now be programmed if the other posts don't help you first. This ended up working for me.
Thought it might help you as well. No one likes to hear that garage door opener rolling around in the vehicle.
FAQ about the Homelink® Repeater Kit For use with Chamberlain, Sears Craftsman and LiftMaster garage door openers operating on Security+ 2.0™ radios LiftMaster has created a new version of our remote control rolling code called Security+ 2.0. This new technology increases radio range and virtually eliminates interference. This code did not exist prior to 2011.
HomeLink is manufactured by an automotive supplier that licenses our technology for use in vehicles. HomeLink now offers a 'repeater kit' that allows any HomeLink-equipped vehicle from 2000 - present to communicate with any Security+ 2.0 garage door opener. Visit and follow the steps to program your specific vehicle and garage door opener to determine if you need this repeater kit. Why don't the new LiftMaster openers work with HomeLink vehicles made prior to 2007?
LiftMaster has created a new version of our remote control rolling code (Security+ 2.0™) that increases radio range and virtually eliminates interference. Older vehicles do not have this code in their HomeLink systems since it did not exist prior to 2007. This is not the first time that HomeLink has added new codes during the life of the product; the same situation existed back in the late 1990's, only on a much smaller scale since HomeLink was not as popular as it is today. This does mark the first time that HomeLink has developed a backwards-compatible solution in the form of the repeater kit, thus allowing older vehicles to operate with new technology. Homeowners and dealers should be pleased that the kit exists, as many electronic products made today are rarely backwards compatible! Some newer vehicles (2008 and up) still do not have the new Security+ 2.0™ code in the HomeLink system. Why did this happen?
HomeLink is manufactured and designed by Johnson Controls, a large interior supplier to the automotive industry. Chamberlain (LiftMaster) gave Johnson Controls the new Security+ 2.0™ rolling code back in 2006 so they could add it to the HomeLink system in some vehicle models starting in late 2007. Many automotive companies chose not to immediately implement the new version of HomeLink for various reasons. In fact, some vehicles made in 2011 still do not have the new version. It may be that even within the same vehicle make, there are models that have the new HomeLink codes and in the same year, models that do not.
This condition exists through no fault of Chamberlain or Johnson Controls; it was simply based on decisions at each automotive manufacturer to implement or delay the new version of HomeLink. Which version of HomeLink is required and how can I determine which vehicles have it?
HomeLink version 4.0 or higher vehicles are equipped with Security+ 2.0™. While lists do exist that show vehicles equipped and model years affected, these remain the property of the auto manufacturers and Johnson Controls; we are not permitted to distribute these lists. For the most accurate information, it is recommended that a consumer or dealer contact HomeLink directly at 800-355-3515 to determine vehicle compatibility. It may be necessary to look at the manufacturing date on the vehicle body. Another method of determining compatibility is to try to program the vehicle to a Security+ 2.0 system; if the connection cannot be made after one or two attempts, a HomeLink Repeater kit should be installed to rectify the situation. Will the HomeLink repeater kit resolve difficult radio interference problems when used with a Security+ 2.0™ garage door opener?
Most likely, the answer is no. The HomeLink repeater uses 310 MHz signals, which may help reduce interference if there are problems at 315 or 390 MHz. Excessive interference between HomeLink in the vehicle and the HomeLink repeater kit may still create problems. Only the use of a Security+ 2.0™ garage door opener combined with either a Security+ 2.0™ transmitter or HomeLink vehicle transmitter v. 4.0 (or higher) will resolve difficult radio interference problems. What happens to a HomeLink repeater when the power in the garage goes out?
The HomeLink repeater kit runs on 110 volt AC power. If the power goes out, the repeater will not work. For openers with AC motors (non-battery backup models) this is not an issue, since the opener and repeater are both inoperable when power is lost. If the repeater kit is operating a new Security+ 2.0™ battery-backup equipped garage door opener, a Security+ 2.0™ remote transmitter will be required to open the door during a power outage. In areas where residential power loss is common or recurring, it is recommended that the homeowner keep a Security+ 2.0™ transmitter in the glove box of the vehicle to allow entry during a power outage.
Homelink Garage Door Opener
Of course, a battery backup Security+ 2.0™ opener can always be controlled from outside the garage with a Security+ 2.0™ keypad. Why didn't the HomeLink repeater kit be designed to have a battery inside to allow operation of the repeater during a power failure?
The HomeLink repeater kit is a Johnson Controls branded product. Furthermore, it would be very costly to design a device that has a built-in battery that would retain power for hours or days in the event of a power failure. For those homeowners with a battery backup garage door opener, the more practical solution is for the vehicle owner to keep a spare Security+ 2.0™ remote in the glove box. How many Security+ 2.0™ garage door openers can be programmed with a single HomeLink repeater kit?
The number of openers is virtually unlimited since the repeater is only acting as a “translator” to pass through commands. So there will be no problem programming one HomeLink repeater kit to multiple doors in a single garage as long as they are within range of the repeater kit mounted in the garage. How many HomeLink buttons (including ones in different vehicles), can be programmed using a single HomeLink repeater kit? The number of HomeLink buttons and vehicles are unlimited, just like the number of openers. One repeater kit is all that is needed for a garage, regardless of number of vehicles or garage door openers/doors. What is the radio range of the HomeLink repeater kit? The range of the repeater kit to the HomeLink transmitter in the vehicle will be the same as the range of a standard Security+ transmitter is today.
The range of the Repeater kit to the Security+ 2.0™ garage door opener is the same as a Security+ 2.0™ remote to the opener. What is included in the HomeLink repeater kit and how does it work? The kit includes a plug-in 110 volt repeater and one single-button 310 MHz remote control. The repeater plugs into any outlet in the garage.
The remote control is only used to “learn” the repeater code and frequency to the existing HomeLink buttons in the vehicle and will not communicate with the Security+ 2.0™ radio system in the garage door opener; Once HomeLink is programmed, the remote control will not operate the opener. It is recommended that the homeowner keep the single-button 310 MHz HomeLink remote control for future use with other vehicles if needed. For programming details, refer to the instructions included in the HomeLink repeater kit. Why didn't this repeater kit release when the first new Security+ 2.0™ models released? The HomeLink repeater kit was originally intended to be a Johnson Controls product only.
After discussions with Johnson Controls, it was agreed that LiftMaster would have the ability to sell the product to support the LiftMaster business, thus helping HomeLink to quickly resolve customer problems during time of installation of a new Security+ 2.0™ garage door opener. What about vehicles with Car2U transmitter systems?
Car2U is manufactured by Lear Corporation, a competitor of Johnson Controls. Car2U has never used the rolling code of any model Sears, Chamberlain or LiftMaster remote control. Vehicles with a Car2U system are not compatible with any version of our rolling code. Lear Car2U can be identified by three LED lights, one above each button on the product. Consumers with a Lear Car2U should be directed to contact Lear for further assistance at 1-866-572-2728. Will LiftMaster dealers be able to obtain the HomeLink repeater kit for free?
No, dealers will have to buy the kit from LiftMaster as the kit remains the intellectual property of Johnson Controls. Chamberlain and LiftMaster are only authorized agents allowed to resell the repeater kit. What will HomeLink charge consumers for the repeater kit? HomeLink has set a consumer price of $49.95, not including shipping.
For vehicles within their three-year factory warranty, HomeLink may offer the repeater kit for the cost of shipping only. This offer is subject to HomeLink approval. LiftMaster dealers will be able to buy the kit from LiftMaster, and resell it for the same price to the consumer as HomeLink.
For the most accurate information, it is recommended that a consumer or dealer contact HomeLink directly at 1-800-355-3515 to determine vehicle compatibility. Basic Steps to Program the HomeLink. Press and hold down the two outside buttons on the HomeLink in the vehicle. Release the HomeLink vehicle buttons when the indicator light begins to fl ash (after 20 seconds). Hold the new remote control 1-3' away from the HomeLink and keep the indicator light in view.
Simultaneously press and hold the remote control button with the HomeLink button you want to program. DO NOT release any buttons until the next step is completed. The indicator light on the HomeLink will begin to flash slowly during the programming. When the indicator light begins to fl ash rapidly, release the remote control and HomeLink buttons.
Test the HomeLink. Press and hold the programmed HomeLink button. If the indicator light remains on the programming was successful.
Program Bmw Homelink Without Remote
DIY for programming the. Surprisingly, I had trouble finding concise in one spot for in my 2002 BMW E39 so here as a GDO DIY.
Programming information can be found in this generic. BATTERY: 'They say' it is best to have a strong battery in the remote before you program your Homelink transmitter in your BMW overhead.
The reason 'they say' this is because it's a recording; weak signal in weak signals out ('they say'). Anyone with proof. Please advise. RESET PROGRAMMING MODE: You do not need to reset but you might wish to erase all buttons when you obtain the car or sell the car. To reset all three Homelink buttons at once: 1. Set the ignition with your key to the ACC2 position (no need to start the engine).
Simultaneously press and hold the two outside buttons (#1 and #3) of your Homelink control unit 3. Keep holding both outside buttons until the Homelink LED flashes rapidly (this will take about 20 seconds). That's it; the old settings are now wiped out for all three buttons. Note: Do not repeat this step unless you wish to wipe out all existing settings!). RE-PROGRAM PROGRAMMING MODE: 0.
You can program the Homelink after a reset or you must put the Homelink into 'programming mode'. To put the Homelink buttons into programming mode, press the desired button that you would like to reprogram and keep it pressed until the LED starts to flash slowly. Let the LED flash slowly for about 20 seconds. Only then (after the LED flashes slowly for about 20 seconds) should you release the button.
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The Homelink system is now in programming mode. Note: You will have five minutes to carry out the re-programming. PROGRAMMING FOR STANDARD CODES: This first procedure assumes a fixed code GDO (not rolling codes - instructions for which will come later). Position your hand-held remote transmitter 1 to 3 inches away from the HomeLink surface (located on your overhead sunroof panel), keeping the HomeLink indicator light in view (the closer the better in most cases).
Using both hands, simultaneously press and hold both the desired HomeLink button (e.g., button #1) and the hand held remote's transmitter button. DO NOT release both buttons until the HomeLink indicator light flashes slowly and then rapidly. When the Homelink indicator light flashes rapidly, both buttons may be released. That's it (if you have a simple GDO); the rapid flashing indicates successful training of Homelink.
Note: Apparently 'Canadian Instructions' are slightly different; go figure. HOW TO TELL IF YOU HAVE ROLLING CODES: (i.e., encrypted codes) 1. Press and hold the now-trained HomeLink button and observe the indicator light. A) If the Homelink indicator light is solid and continuous, training is complete and your garage door should activate when the HomeLink button is momentarily pressed and released. B) If the indicator light blinks rapidly for 2 seconds and then turns to a solid and continuous light, proceed with the following training instructions for a rolling code device. Note: A second person may make the following steps quicker and easier. Please use a ladder or other device.
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The Homelink people warn 'Do not stand on your vehicle to perform the next steps' (duh). PROGRAMMING FOR ROLLING CODES: 0. Apparently, you have to do the non-rolling code stuff above first; then, if you find you have rolling codes (based on the indicator light action described in 1b avove), then proceed as described below. At the garage door opener receiver (aka, at the motorhead unit) in the garage, locate the 'learn' or 'smart' button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, reference the garage door opener's manual or contact Homelink at +1-800-355-3515. Press and release the 'learn' or 'smart' button (the name and color of the button may vary by manufacturer but a black button with a red LED is common). NOTE: Once the button is pressed, you generally have about 30 seconds in which to initiate the next step.
Return to the BMW and firmly press and hold the previously trained HomeLink button for three seconds & then release. Do step 3 again (they actually told me to do this when I called for help). Do step 3 yet another time (just to be sure). HomeLink should now activate your garage door with rolling codes. Note: You can re-program any button at any time. If this procedure fails, you can call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help (which is what I did and where additional steps above were added and a lot of my description was improved).
PLACEMENT: 1. To train, some remotes must be placed directly in front of the transmitter. Others at a distance of up to 30 centimeters 3. In my case, I placed the remote transmitter right next to the BMW Homelink roof panel, actually touching the panel (that's what the Homelink Customer Support guy said to do - and it worked). Note: Make sure your battery in the remote is good. This may be an old wives' tale but 'they say' it's like a tape recording'; low-volume in, low-volume out.
Press the Homelink button you have now programmed. If the LED is constantly lit, you have successfully concluded the programming. You also should see the garage door opening (duh). Here are some more details on programming and troubleshooting the Homelink system on the BMW: RANGE PROBLEMS: Poor range can be caused by interference around or near the vehicle or due to the use of older batteries in the original transmitter during programming. Put a new battery in your hand-held transmitter.
Training the HomeLink takes more power from the battery than when you push the button to open the door. Sometimes by putting a new battery in the hand-held transmitter, it does help pick up a better train and increases the range.
Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink.
Try a second transmitter with new batteries. Straighten the antenna wire that hangs down from the garage door opener motorhead. FREQUENCY: HomeLink is an integrated transceiver (a transmitter and receiver) that can be programmed to activate radio frequency (RF) devices such as garage doors, estate/community gates, entry door locks, home/office lighting, or other RF devices. HomeLink is compatible with radio-frequency devices operating between 288 and 399 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 322-335 MHz range).
Select 2007 and newer vehicles are compatible up to 433 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 400-410 MHz range). COMPATIBILITY: Please contact us by email or phone (1-800-355-3515) to verify vehicle compatibility. TROUBLESHOOTING: You can either call our customer service number (1-800-355-3515) or contact us by email for complete programming assistance. First try the following troubleshooting tips:. Check the frequency of the device's hand-held transmitter (usually found on the back).
HomeLink is compatible with radio-frequency devices operating between 288-399MHz (some 2007 and newer vehicles may be compatible up to 433MHz. Please contact us for vehicle compatibility). Put a brand new, store bought battery in the hand-held transmitter. During the programming process the battery's energy tends to drain (more so with an older battery). A new battery will increase the speed and accuracy in which the hand-held transmitter sends its signal to HomeLink. Retrain HomeLink holding the hand-held transmitter at different lengths and angles from the HomeLink button you are trying to program. Try 4-6 inches away at a different angle.
Cycle the hand-held transmitter during programming: Press and hold the HomeLink button while you press and release the hand-held transmitter every 2 seconds until the indicator light changes from a slow blink to a rapid flash. To verify HomeLink has programmed, press and hold the HomeLink button and observe the indicator light:. If the indicator light remains solid, it has picked up the signal and should operate the device. If the indicator light blinks rapidly for two seconds and turns solid, HomeLink has successfully picked up the rolling code signal.
Please follow the rolling code instructions outlined in the 'programming a garage door opener' section to complete the process. If the indicator light remains a slow blink, HomeLink has not picked up the signal from the hand-held remote. Try programming the button again or choose another button to program. PROGRAMMING FOR A PRE-1982 GARAGE DOOR: As long as the garage door opener is in the same frequency band (288-433 MHz.), HomeLink can be programmed to this older unit. However, frequencies of some older openers can shift outside of the HomeLink operating band, and become incompatible. The best way to program an older garage door opener is: 1) Put NEW batteries in the original transmitter and 2) Hold the original transmitter between one and three inches away from the HomeLink surface until HomeLink learns the signal (refer to our programming section for complete instructions). If HomeLink has not picked up the signal within a few seconds, position the original transmitter at different lengths and angles.
If these suggestions do not work, you may have a problem with the garage door opener itself. If you chose to contact a garage door opener service technician, be aware that, under FCC regulations, they or anyone else are unable to service the device if it was manufactured before 1982. Many garage door openers manufactured before 1982 do not have the safety stop-and-reverse feature which is now required by law. Some states (NY, IN, CA, MN) require service technicians to totally disable the opener if they find it to be malfunctioning. WHAT IF I DON'T HAVE A HAND-HELD REMOTE GDO? You have to have a hand-held transmitter to program HomeLink.
KEELOQ-based Rolling Code Garage Door Openers: The HomeLink unit uses Microchip's rolling code technology to access some brands of garage door openers. Every KEELOQ-based HomeLink transmission includes 5 parts:. Serial Number. Button/Function Code.
Status Code. Counter Value. Discrimination Bits In a given message to be transmitted, these portions are organized as follows:. Unencrypted Encrypted. Counter Value.
The HomeLink unit transmits an unencrypted portion and an encrypted portion. The message is transmitted starting with the bit furthest to the right in the above figure and ending with the first bit furthest to the left.
Unencrypted Portion of the Transmission The unencrypted portion of the transmission includes the status code, the button code, and the serial number. Serial Number (24 or 28 bits). Each HomeLink unit has a serial number which the garage door opener reads to distinguish the HomeLink unit from other HomeLink units or other transmitters. The serial number can be 24 or 28 bits long, depending on the garage door opener system, and the lower 8 bits are used to form the discrimination bits. The serial number is loaded from memory for each transmission.
If all else fails, call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help - and write back here what you found out. BMW offered the Homelink UGDO in the mirror for many 3 series cars and convertibles.or as an accessory that could be purchased later for cars that didn't have this feature as standard equipment. In the (e39/e38) 5 & 7 sedans.the Homelink UGDO transmitter is located in the sunroof access panel. In fact, if you have an e39 that didn't come with the premium pkg.you probably don't have the UGDO in the panel.but more than likely.there's a 3 pin wiring harness tucked above the headliner behind the access panel. The 3 pin/3 wire connector will be the WHITE one (on older e39s.like 1996/97 build date.the connector may be white & black and will only have TWO wires running to it because the early UGDOs were NOT illuminated). If you remove the panel to look for the additional wiring harness up there.you'll probably run into another 3 pin/3 wire connector that is BLACK.that connector is for the microphone for if the car was equipped with a phone.don't try to connect the black connector to the UGDO.it won't fit because the connector is not designed the same way.
The e39's Homelink UGDO (universal garage door opener) is usually in the sunroof panel.it is the switch with the 3 buttons and the Homelink icon on it (sorry for the huge pic.its the only one I have of the UGDO). There is a lot of weird stuff in the for BMW but I still wanted to make it available to you in case you need it. For example, I wanted to post the themselves (as a PDF in case they go away) but I could not shrink the PDF enough to fit under 1MB.
So, here are screenshots of those homelink instructions so that others can benefit from the DIY should they need the programming instructions direct from the manufacturer. Notice that there is special DIAGNOSTIC procedures which I don't recall seeing on Bimmerfest prior. Thanks for taking the time to 'shrink' my huge UGDO pic.
You've helped me and many others immensely. I was just looking for instructions to program my GDO and, well, whenever I have to search, I figure others do too, and, well, if I can summarize, then, well, others can benefit from the summary (or so the theory goes). After looking this up, I think this link is probably the to refer people to if they need to program their Homelink system because they'll get specific instructions for whatever BMW they currently own (Canada, Europe, USA, etc.). BTW, you might want to edit the big-pic post and just add the shrunken picture as the reference so that it prints nicer for others though. After all this. It didn't work when I got home and tried the new doors.
I must have 'rolling codes'. Will have to dig more. Bluebee.can you give us some more details as to what you did to program it and what UGDO you have (rearview mirror or sunroof panel module)? Also, what type of GDO (g/door) do you have?
Does it have the safety beam that if you cross it the door reverses? If you picked up a used Homelink UGDO and it has a red LED when you press the buttons.and your g/door has rolling codes.then it won't work. The early UGDOs (w/red LED) will only operate old g/doors that were built before 1992 (I believe that is the year). If your UGDO has a green or amber LED.then it can handle rolling code g/doors. If you picked up a used Homelink UGDO and it has a red LED when you press the buttons.and your g/door has rolling codes.then it won't work. Sorry I didn't respond sooner.
I didn't see this. It is interesting that a used homelink is different than a factory installed one; that's something for the DIY so others benefit. In my case, it's the factory-installed Homelink. It has the three buttons in the sunroof panel. The garage door is a ( 800-354-3643). The house was renovated in 1993 and has all the safety-beam features in the doors. What I'm gonna do if/when I get home during business hours is: a) Print out this thread and follow the advice exactly (it's a good test) b) If that fails, I'll call Homelink technical support 800-355-3515 c) I'll post back the results (and lessons learned) when done.
Hey Bluebee.with the info you just gave.I bet you'll have to clear your Homelink (pressing the 1st & 3rd button till it flashes real fast).then press the button on the back of your home's GDO that's hanging from the ceiling of the garage.then get back to the car real fast and press & hold the button of you choice until it gives the appropriate flashes on your Homelink. If you have the type of GDO (hanging from the ceiling) that has the programmable button built into it to 'train' remotes.be careful and make sure that the car is all the way in the garage and not half in/half out. If you have someone to help.it would make it easier and safer.
I just upgraded my 97 e38 with the newer Homelink from somone parting an 01 e38. My 97 e38 had the older Homelink that had the red LED and was also NOT illuminated.
My 99 e39 has the newer illuminated HOMELINK (has green LED).so I really began to hate the 'Helen Keller' older version that made me have to fumble & fiddle with the buttons when arriving home in the dark. I had to add an extra wire to the 97 e38's electrical harness (for the illumination).but after everything was hooked up.it took less than 1 minute to program the new Homelink. I bet you'll have to clear your Homelink (pressing the 1st & 3rd button till it flashes real fast).then press the button on the back of your home's GDO that's hanging from the ceiling of the garage.then get back to the car real fast and press & hold the button of you choice until it gives the appropriate flashes on your Homelink. You were soooooo right! I finally got all the Homelink buttons to work just fine. I had to call the Homelink guys who walked me right through it. I think the secret was step 3, 4, and 5 below!
Instead of just pressing the button, you have to PRESS AND HOLD the button (for three seconds!). That was the trick!
When I did that (three times), it finally worked! To help others, I updated the DIY just now. HOW TO TELL IF YOU HAVE ROLLING CODES: (i.e., encrypted codes) 1.
Press and hold the now-trained HomeLink button and observe the indicator light. A) If the Homelink indicator light is solid and continuous, training is complete and your garage door should activate when the HomeLink button is momentarily pressed and released.
B) If the indicator light blinks rapidly for 2 seconds and then turns to a solid and continuous light, proceed with the following training instructions for a rolling code device. Note: A second person may make the following steps quicker and easier.
Please use a ladder or other device. Do not stand on your vehicle to perform the next steps. PROGRAMMING FOR ROLLING CODES: 1. At the garage door opener receiver (aka, at the motorhead unit) in the garage, locate the 'learn' or 'smart' button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, reference the garage door opener's manual or contact Homelink at +1-800-355-3515.
Press and release the 'learn' or 'smart' button (the name and color of the button may vary by manufacturer but a black button with a red LED is common). NOTE: Once the button is pressed, you generally have about 30 seconds in which to initiate the next step. Return to the BMW and firmly press and hold the previously trained HomeLink button for three seconds & then release.
Do step 3 again (they actually told me to do this when I called for help). Do step 3 yet another time (this is the step that finally worked for me!) 6. HomeLink should now activate your garage door with rolling codes. Note: You can re-program any button at any time.
If this procedure fails, you can call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help (which is what I did and where additional steps above were added and a lot of so that newbies could start where I left off). Does anyone have their Homelink operating a? Are the steps the same? To report back, the answer was not intuitive! (but now I know how to break into people's homes and garages!) The GTO people (800-543-4283) told me there is no way to program the Homelink from the GTO keypad. The Homelink people ( 800-355-3515) told me the same thing; I had to have a remote to program the Homelink.
But, all I had was the GTO keypad; I did not have a remote for the GTO gate opener. Luckily the GTO people told me that I could buy a GTO remote at Home Depot for $32.
So, I bought a GTO remote at Home Depot; I flipped the DIP switches for the GTO remote to set the code; and I programmed the GTO gate opener to the remote by pressing the learn button on the gate opener. Note: Yes, this seems backward; instead of programming the remote to the GTO, you program the GTO to the remote.(If I had known it was that simple to open people's gates, I would have become a professional burgler). Once I had the (now useless) GTO remote working to open the gate, then (and only then) could I program the Homelink to the remote so that it would open the gate. This reverse logic is not intuitive (to me anyway) so I hope the next person benefits from this documentation effort. Unfortunately, I didn't have this Homelink-DIY printout with me so I called the Homelink hotline and their voice prompts walked me through all the steps to program my BMW Homelink to the GTO remote.
I never needed a human on the phone. Luckily the GTO gate doesn't use those nasty 'rolling codes', so, it was all programmed, while I was driving, one finger on the remote, the other on the Homelink button.
Surprisingly, the gate opened from the BMW Homelink button when I got home last night. For some reason, the GTO keypad stopped working so I'll call the GTO people to get that up and running again. Wow, slight security flaw. Anyone can buy a GTO remote, open the box to their neighbor's gate opener (mine is in the OUTSIDE of the gate), and hit the 'learn' button. Instant burgler! It's actually harder to get the.
After a few days, everything is working. But the range is atrocious. I have to sometimes nudge the BMW grill almost touching the gate and then repeatedly press the Homelink button and then quickly back off before the gate hits the hood. I'm going to have to retrain based on the Homelink-provided instructions for increasing the range!
THREE SOLUTIONS TO HOMELINK RANGE PROBLEMS: 1. Poor range can be caused by interference around or near the vehicle 2. Or by a bent antenna (straighten the opener's receiving antenna) 3. Or by low batteries in the original transmitter during programming 4. Or by training the Homelink too close to the receiver (go figure). In my situation: 1.
I don't think there's any undue interference (from what?) 2. The antenna is sticking up straight at the post so I don't think it's this 3. The original transmitter is brand new (so it's not likely the batteries) 4.
That only leaves a re-training from further away (go figure) I'm gonna try the third approach and retrain as follows:. Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink. I'll let you know if this retraining-at-distance increases the range. I did call GTO Incorporated (800-543-4283, ) to see if there is a way to increase the sensitivity of the receiver from the receiving end - but they said the only thing I could do was move the receiver further from the control board and closer to the car or replace the receiver itself (assuming it's defective). Very well written DIY and easy to implement after not so concise instructions from the manual.
After futile searches elsewhere I should have realized where the answer would be. It makes me feel good to help others, which is why I spend the time to write these things up (I wish I could do more by way of DIYs, like cn90 does, for example - but I'm limited to the simpler things). I did run through each step which is why they're written that way, after I too had problems with the instructions originally provided.
Glad to be of service! You'll probably run into another 3 pin/3 wire connector that is BLACK.that connector is for the microphone for if the car was equipped with a phone.don't try to connect the black connector to the UGDO. Just added the opener to my E39 and sure enough, the first thing I ran into was the black connector.
![Program Program](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123738073/674795667.jpg)
The white one was more hidden. Thanks for this very important info Q. I was about to start rigging the wires to my cigarette lighter or something! BTW.my procedure (rolling codes) was: 1) clear the old codes, as listed above.
2) hold down the BMW GDO button I was training for about ten seconds, and then (without releasing the BMW button) depress the old transmitter until the BMW GDO started blinking quickly. Quote: Boost Your Car's Key Fob Range (by Pointing It at Your Head) Tech urban legend says that you can increase your car's key fob by strategically pointing it at your head-something to do with the shape of your skull acting as a directional antenna of sorts.
So were we-until we tested it with PCWorld Editorial Director Steve Fox's car in our parking lot. First, we tried to establish the key fob's maximum range with a standard grip while maintaining a line-of-sight connection-which turned out to be about 100 feet from the car. At that distance, we found, the car responded to 1 of every 20 to 30 button presses. Then we had four different staffers lock and unlock the car while pointing the key fob at our heads, either holding it up against the bottom of our chins or pointing it at our temples (as though we were playing Russian Roulette). To our surprise, this method enabled us to move an additional 40 feet or so away from the car and still get effective performance from the key fob; at that point we reached the wall of the parking lot, putting an end to the experiment. Different people achieved their best results by holding the key fob at different parts of their head-presumably because the shapes of their skulls differed-but the trick clearly was effective.
The verdict: Well, it worked for us. Try it yourself if you don't believe us.
Trying to program your HomeLink for your BMW? The video on the right side of the page will teach you what steps you need to follow in order to quickly and easily train your HomeLink.
The most commonly needed video will automatically play, but for some garage door openers, we have included manufacturer-specific videos below the main player. Not into video? You can also get detailed instructions for your specific vehicle by clicking your model name in the list below. For BMW owners who are using a garage door opener by Genie, Sommer, or who have an older generation of HomeLink (in model years 2008 and earlier), select your training videos from the list beneath the main video.